The Dolphins of Costa Rica

Striped dolphin: a relatively common dolphin found in tropical waters and distinguished by black bands that circle its eyes and run down its back. Although the striped dolphin is commonly found in the Pacific Ocean, they are rarely seen off the coast of Drake Bay.
Spinner dolphin: a small but incredibly acrobatic dolphin species found in tropical and subtropical waters, sometimes far offshore. Encountering a spinner dolphin superpod is a main goal of Shawn Larkin’s “ocean safaris.”
Pantropical spotted dolphin: a thriving dolphin species (about 3 million worldwide) that lives in tropical and subtropical waters and sometimes displays spots on its skin. These are quite common off the coast of Drake Bay.
Bottlenose dolphin: the most abundant and recognized dolphin, the bottlenose is large and gray, and it is known for an elongated snout and an interest in interspecies mating, which Shawn Larkin and Paul Forestell studied on the Caribbean.
Tucuxi dolphin: less common and smaller than the bottlenose, the Tucuxi dolphin species has a light gray coloring and pink underbelly, and it may be found in fresh or salt water. Bottlenose dolphins have attempted to mate with tucuxis.
For Shawn, encountering a superpod was, without question, one of the most extraordinary wildlife adventures on the planet. It would begin with a few faraway spouts of water on the horizon, and as the boat drew closer, guests would begin to notice the shiny and undulating backs of dolphins ahead, and then a few off to either side, and then some behind the boat. Still more would be gliding just beneath the surface, and then - when the dolphins became excited to have an audience - the real show would begin. Like some seaborne circus act, the dolphins would surf the boat's wake, fly through the air and crank their bodies into tight spins ending in explosions of saltwater. They would chase the boat and mate right there in the water, one dolphin supine beneath another, as if to share their joy.
The tours would last for hours, and as far as a person could see in all directions, there would be jumping and spinning dolphins. Guests would forget they were on a boat and come to think of themselves as members of the pod itself. Shawn would bounce back and forth among them, sharing his knowledge, pointing out behaviors and channeling all of his energy to create a bond between the dolphins and his passengers.
As Greg lost the ability to convince people at Aquamor, on the Caribbean, of anything, Shawn persuaded hotel owners in Drake Bay to let him bring their guests on what he called "ocean safaris." Although he didn't always find the superpods, he was persistent. He promised himself, he would learn enough about the dolphins to locate them every time and prove to the world just how exceptional they were.
Already, a few people were noticing.
When Shawn opened Costa Cetacea, his own dolphin tour business, all the guidebooks exalted him, and he was even hired to escort wildlife video crews out, including one led by Didier Noirot, one of Jacques Cousteau's cinematographers. The crews quickly learned how talented Shawn was at finding the dolphins, and often hired him again and again, sometimes listing him as director on their films, and even using some of his footage.
Shawn and Greg became completely estranged. They did not speak for three years and during that time Greg lost his money, his business connections and nearly everything that tied him to reality. Myra and Richard began to lose faith. They had supported the business for years, even traveling to the Caribbean themselves to repair equipment and relationships and attract new customers. In the end, however, their good intentions toward their son only exacerbated his decline.
In early 2009, Myra and Richard finally cut their son off financially and canceled his credit card. Then Shawn got a call from his father. "It is time to sell," he said. Shawn's father told him that Greg was already back in the U.S. and would not be returning to Costa Rica. Shortly thereafter, Myra called to say that she would be coming for a visit. She never made the trip, and Shawn never spoke with his parents again.
In late April, Shawn learned that his parents had been murdered in their home.
* * *
He had a bad feeling as soon as he answered the phone. It was his sister Katrina, whom he hadn't talked to in months. She and Greg had become a kind of a team - hanging out and partying and not doing much else - and Shawn had stopped believing anything they said.
Very bad news, his sister said. Terrible. Mom and dad are gone. Someone killed them.
Very bad news, his sister said. Terrible. Mom and dad are gone. Someone killed them.
Shawn put the phone down and the jungle seemed to close around him. Confusion turned to disbelief. Then despair. He couldn't bring himself to speak.
He sensed that the killings had something to do with Greg, perhaps the result of failing to pay debts to drugs dealers, and worried that even his own family could be in danger. Shawn decided the best way to protect them would be to hide out for as long as possible. In the jungle.
Shawn retreated with his family to an open-air compound he and Vanessa had been building on a remote, partially cleared acre of land by a river, accessible only by kayak at high tide. Though the home still lacked electricity and running water, the family shut themselves off from everything and everyone. They did not play in the river. They did not listen to music. They did not have anyone over and Shawn never left, not even to see the dolphins.
He became vacant, unable to process real emotion. In place of allowing himself to grieve or to confront the fears that would haunt him later, the questions about how tragedy would affect his wife and young daughter, he became utterly, almost primitively consumed with the idea of their protection. If someone approached the property, Shawn roughly ordered them off. His family's fierce Rhodesian ridgeback Raja was his only comfort.
Finally, Shawn took a phone call from an FBI agent. They discussed the case, and Shawn began to explain how thought the murders were likely revenge for Greg's unpaid debts. The agent interrupted him. "Let me tell you," the agent said, "that my uncle killed my grandmother, and he was just a piece of shit. My family has come to accept that."
Shawn suddenly understood, and for the first time considered the idea that Greg could be the killer. Police tracked the Larkins' SUV to the Jacksonville airport, and found Greg there. Greg had apparently beaten his parents to death in their home with a baseball bat. Then he had stolen their SUV, driven to the airport and flown to Cancun. When he returned a week later, the couple had not yet been discovered. After a friend found the bodies, the county sheriff told the local news it was "one of the most violent scenes I have ever witnessed in my law enforcement career."
Greg was charged first with auto theft and carrying an invalid driver's license, and his belongings were taken as evidence. A day later, Myra's blood was found on his clothing, and he was charged with two counts of murder.
He drank every night, feeling nothing. For a long time, he did not think of the dolphins.
Shawn couldn't fathom that his own brother - who looked just like him - would be capable of such horror. He didn't want to know any details, and the FBI told him there are some things he would be better off not knowing.
Greg maintained his innocence, and a few family members continue to believe he was wrongly accused. A jury thought otherwise and he was convicted and sentenced to death on March 15, 2012.
Shawn cut off contact with his siblings. The loss of his family left him unhinged, uncertain of anything at all. He drank every night, feeling nothing. For a long time, he did not think of the dolphins.
* * *
Six months passed. Shawn rarely left the jungle for anything more than a grocery run. And though he still felt tired, deflated and numb, one day he agreed to do a favor for a friend. He would take some people she knew out on a dolphin tour.
As Shawn, no longer the vibrant adventurer, left his compound to help out his old friend, he was thin and weak, and his pale skin seemed thrown over his narrow frame like an old coverlet. His footsteps were heavy through the forest and down the mountain, as if he didn't remember how to walk. He untied a kayak and guided it absently down the river to the hotels, where the captain met him with a 24-foot motor boat and, together, they picked up the day's guests, a married couple in their 80s.
Shawn had not realized his visitors would be so old, and at the same time so vibrant and engaged. The surprise stirred something in him, and he couldn't help but notice that the guests were just a little older than his parents at the time of their death.
As the boat skidded south alongside the peninsula, where waves crashed wildly against the rocky shore and twisting wilderness reigned, Shawn tried to remember what he used to do on the tours. This was Corcovado National Park in southwestern Costa Rica, where more species of plants and animals make their home than anywhere else in the country: 500 tree species, 140 different mammals, 367 kinds of birds and more than 6,000 varieties of insects.
As Shawn's guests began asking questions about the landscape and the kinds of creatures protected within Corcovado, he learned they were retired biologists. He liked that. As he answered their questions, the sound of his own confident speaking voice caught him off guard. He thought, Is this what I used to sound like? Is this who I was? He felt as if he was seeing himself from afar, an old friend slowly coming closer.
He felt as if he was seeing himself from afar, an old friend slowly coming closer.
When people talk about Corcovado's abundant life, they call the region Costa Rica's most "biodiverse," he explained. But today, Shawn told the couple, they were going to a place in the Pacific that was among the world's most "bioproductive," with less diversity than Corcovado, but where everything living thrived.
Shawn told them of the dolphins that regularly traveled together in these waters, hunting and breeding as they went, and as he said the word "superpods," a familiar sense of purpose suddenly jolted through in him, and he knew: this was his calling. This was where he thrived. Today's trip would almost certainly be his guests' only chance to see a superpod, to share their world, and he alone could make it happen.
Both excited and terrified as he walked to the bow, he remembered the exhilaration of being propelled and levitated by the sea, almost like surfing. His body seemed renewed and his red hair tossed wildly in the wind as he stared at the ocean for a long time, looking hard for signs of brown booby birds, which eat the same fish that dolphins do, and the tiny white exhalations of spray rising from the sea, a sure indicator of spinner dolphins.
He was silent for a long time, almost in a trance, and then he saw the distant splashes. He came alive and shouted to the captain to speed up, and as they closed in, he allowed himself to accept that the dolphins were really there, only a few miles away. He began to feel a surge in his chest. This, he remembered, was the thing he had lived for.
"They're here," he said.
As the skiff approached the pod, the tourists saw spinner dolphins were leaping 20 feet out of the water and twisting through the air like world-class gymnasts, water droplets flying from their graceful bodies as they spun. They completed unfathomable numbers of 360s, reentered the water and seconds later reemerged to throw another trick. Shawn began to whistle and call out, and the dolphins seemed to respond with even more enthusiasm, jerking themselves up out of the water as if to stand, and surfing and jumping alongside the boat and in its wake as if they recognized him and were welcoming him back. How many dolphins, asked the couple. 100? 200? There were about 2,000, he told them.