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Come Fan with UsSaturday, June 20, 2026

This is Janja Garnbret, the 22-year-old climbing phenom

The first gold medal in climbing is in her sights.

IFSC Climbing World Cup
IFSC Climbing World Cup
Photo by Marco Kost/Getty Images
James Dator
James Dator has been covering a wide range of sports for SB Nation for over a decade, with a special focus on the NFL.

Janja Garnbret just doesn’t lose. It’s not in her climbing DNA. From the very first moment the Slovenian climber took to a wall she’s been dominant, leaving everyone else with only a vague hope of challenging her. Now, she’s heading to the Olympic games, and ready to win gold.

Garnbret began climbing at the age of seven, and immediately showed an incredible proficiency for the sport. Climbing mostly for fun in her early years, Garnbret began competing in 2015, the first year she was able to climb in the IFSC Climbing World Cup. At the age of 16 she finished 7th, and it was a sign of success to come.

The very next year Garnbret returned to the world championships, and dominated. Winning gold in both lead and bouldering in the youth competition, and gold in lead among adults. The world was witnessing a climber beyond any expectation, who was showing greatness.

Over the next five years nothing let up. Garnbret went on to win five more gold medals at the world championships, and another in the European championships. Not only was she the best sport climber in the world, but branched out into the world out outdoor rock climbing, challenging herself with incredible ascents, including a grade 9a face in Spain, the most difficult of her career.

Tokyo represents a different kind of challenge, but in her first Olympics it seems destined that Garnbret will win gold — unless someone is able to step up. That seems unlikely.

How to watch Janja Garnbret in Tokyo

  • Women’s combined speed qualifying: Wednesday, August 4 at 3:00 a.m. ET
  • Women’s combined bouldering qualifying: Wednesday, August 4 at 4:00 a.m. ET
  • Women’s combined speed final: Friday, August 6 at 3:30 a.m. ET
  • Women’s combined bouldering final: Friday, August 6 at 4:30 a.m. ET
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